Eric and I wanted to check out one of the steep and tight gullies of
the Sierras named the Checkered Demon Couloir. Its more mellow neighbor,
the Kindergarten Chute, goes at about 50 degrees while the Checkered Demon
Couloir reaches 60 degrees. This couloir is famous for rockfall, and is considered
an extreme ski descent in the spring. When we got there, we learnt why it
is so unfamous: a constant rockfall was directed on us, from the very bottom
of the bergschrund. We climbed the first pitch before turning back, no way
we were going to climb it in these conditions. So we directed our thoughts
on the Kindergarten Chute, an 800' couloir sliced in the middle by the bergschrund.
I was leading when we passed it. I chose the hard way and overcame a short
section of vertical to overhanging ice. The rest of the couloir was
easy and we topped out with great views on Mount Emerson.
Peak 13112 with the narrow line of the Checkered Demon
Couloir on the right and the broader Kindergarten Chute on the left.
Eric starting the first pitch on the Checkered Demon Couloir
with some mixed climbing.
Javier leading near the top of the Kindergarten Chute.
Email : namascar@hotmail.com
Last Update: 25-Oct-03