Paul, Eric, Steve and I climbed the North Arete
of Bear Creek Spire in September 2001. I had already seen the peak several
times and knew about the possibilities in terms of rock climbing. This route
goes up the steep north buttress and has some excellent granite. We went
to the base camp where we met Steve and his girlfriend Kathrin, and her friend
Miki. The girls were a bit altitude sick but it wasn't too bad. The next
day, I teamed up with Steve for the climb while Eric climbed with Paul. After
a first excellent 5.8 pitch, the climb continues among flakes and cracks to
another 5.8 offwidth crack that Paul protected with irremovable hexes... It
was Eric's pleasure to take care of them after him. At the top, the arete
flattens out but is still knife-edged and leads to an exposed top with a summit
boulder problem. The summit block can only be reached by a short problem,
which is scary to do unroped. Paul did it first, then Eric waited for us to
arrive with the rope. We had a great day of climbing.
Bear Creek Spire with the North Arete
We camped at Dade Lake
Me starting to lead the second 5.8 crux pitch
Looking back towards Paul, Javier and Steve before
finding our way through a hole in the rock
Eric sitting on the summit block
Paul at the top with the far summits of the Sierra
in the background. Feather Peak and its North Couloir can be guessed in
the middle of the picture.
Steve, Me and Paul on the way down, with the North
Arete as the background skyline.
Email : namascar@hotmail.com
Last Update: 23-Oct-03