Bear Creek Spire(13,713') North Buttress III 5.8



Paul, Eric, Steve and I climbed the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire in September 2001. I had already seen the peak several times and knew about the possibilities in terms of rock climbing. This route goes up the steep north buttress and has some excellent granite. We went to the base camp where we met Steve and his girlfriend Kathrin, and her friend Miki. The girls were a bit altitude sick but it wasn't too bad. The next day, I teamed up with Steve for the climb while Eric climbed with Paul. After a first excellent 5.8 pitch, the climb continues among flakes and cracks to another 5.8 offwidth crack that Paul protected with irremovable hexes... It was Eric's pleasure to take care of them after him. At the top, the arete flattens out but is still knife-edged and leads to an exposed top with a summit boulder problem. The summit block can only be reached by a short problem, which is scary to do unroped. Paul did it first, then Eric waited for us to arrive with the rope. We had a great day of climbing.

    Bear Creek Spire with the North Arete

    We camped at Dade Lake

    Me starting to lead the second 5.8 crux pitch

    Looking back towards Paul, Javier and Steve before finding our way through a hole in the rock

    Eric sitting on the summit block

 
 A sequence of images on the summit boulder...


    Paul at the top with the far summits of the Sierra in the background. Feather Peak and its North Couloir can be guessed in the middle of the picture.

    Steve, Me and Paul on the way down, with the North Arete as the background skyline.



 Email : namascar@hotmail.com