Mt. Humphrey (4263m) - East Ridge 5.4 II

After Eric's solo on the East Ridge of Humphrey, I was looking for climbing this route. I had heard that the route was fantastic,
with great exposure, views and great climbing. That is all true, but also the rock is less than optimal for a solo ascent.
I started hiking at first lights from the end of the 4wd part of the buttermilks' trail. As every early July, this back country spot was full of flowers. It was beautiful to see in the dawn light. Soon enough I got to the saddle between Peaklet and Humphrey and started up the ridge.

 

 

The lower part of the ridge provides interesting climbing and view. Most of the time you have the choice of staying in the edge of the ridge
or walking on some safer scree on the climbers left. On the way, I was happy to see some ski pilots, a purple flower that grows at altitude.

 

Form the lower part I could see the north couloir on Humphrey, the Checkered Demon and the Kindergarden couloirs on Locke.

 

There is a prominent gendarme on the way, just before a saddle called "Married Man Point". After some more scrabbling, there is a head wall, where I must had got off route, since that was more exciting than anticipated. I had to user the rope to climb 5 m here. The final summit tower provides some exciting climbing, 5.4 according to the books (P. Croft and the Sierra Classics).

 

 

The summit has great views. You can see the Palisade range, Emerson, Paiute Crags, Darwin, Mendel, Tom, Basin, Feather, Royce, Merriam, Beard Creek Spire...so many. Humphrey is 14 ft short of being a fourteener.

On the way dawn, I did some rappels and then walked of the southwest gully. Then while following the drainage back to the car, I could get a close view of the Kindergarden and Checkered Demon couloirs. Once on the lower part, the fields were full with flowers of all colors, it was wonderful to see.