Castleton tower, Kor-Ingalls route 5.9 III
The Castleton Tower dominates the Castle Valley. It is intimidating
and forbidding but at the same time it is an alluring land mark that begs
to be climbed. It has a geometrically regular shape and large aspect ratio.
Slender and tall, 4 pitches long. The approach takes about an hour and has
incredibly scenic views, a small cliff band that can be scary and plenty
of scree.
The first pitch starts on the top of the scree slope, has a fun 5.5
perfect hands straight in crack with foot holds on the sides. Then two
5.7 squeeze chimneys. The rock is wingate sandstone with a layer of calcite.
Therefore, the chimneys are slippery. The second pitch has some wide straight
in cracks with features on the sides. It goes at 5.8. The crux third pitch
has the 5.9 offwidth. At the beginning of the pitch, it is nice to have a
4.5 Camalot and walk it. After clipping two bolts you are face to face with
the offwidth. There are some features on the left side that can help dealing
with this intimidating part. After it, another squeeze chimney takes you
to the belay.
The last pitch is very fan. It is 5.7 face climbing, mostly, over some
really funky rock with mineral incrustations. The summit is a super ethereal
place. You can not see the bottom of the tower at any point, and for that
matter any of the walls of the tower at all. For all you see, you could
be suspended on air, atop of the Castle valley.
You have excellent views of the Rectory, the Priest, The Sister superior,
the Convent, The Pariot Mesa and the Adobe Mesa. There are some snowed
mountains in the south, I think they are La Sal mountains.
A small video from the summit