The Leaning tower is one of the most overhanging big walls on the valley, despite being one of the easiest. It is very much training grounds for bigger and more serious walls. The approach includes a serious boulder hopping and a exposed traverse that will get your heart going if you carry a haul bag.
After fixing pitch 1, we came down, since there were other parties above. Pitch two is a bolt ladder that can be climbed as fast as it can be jugged.
So the next day we jugged pitch 1. As you detach from the belay, you do a wild swing out into vacuum, kind of wild.
Pitch 2 is a easy bolt ladder and pitch 3 is a C2F pitch that Dario cruised.
After Pitch 4 you get to the Awannee ledge, good for 6. The exit from pitch 4 involves a 5.6 slab free move.
Pitch 5 is a traverse after a pengy.
Pitch seven involves a 5.7 free section to a left traversing bolt ladder. From the top of pitch 7 we fixed to the Guano Ledge and set the portaledge for maximum comfort.
Next day we jugged 5 and 6 and climbed pitch 7. It goes free at 5.10, a bit steep for the grade. We aided 100% of it. The hole route is overhanging, so after a while you get used to it and think it is just vertical, but you get pumped accordingly.
Pitch 8 is just 15m, so we link it with 9. Pitch 9 involves a steep roof. Finally pitch 10 is a dihedral to a traverse left under a roof to a great ledge.
The color of the rock is yelow-orange, it is very weird
At the top we found a party of Norwegians (Andes and Sverre), that shared some wine and cigarettes. They were very cool.
There is a small pitch of class 4 to the top from where I took this picture of the ledge. In the middle of the night, a party of Mexicans arrived to the ledge. They were Mari Sol and Arturo. Next day, the 6 of us descended through the rappels...
...and got back to Camp 4.
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