I keep on taking new people to this route just to realize this
is a bad idea and forget. When I first climb it with Fred on 1999, it was
a nice challenge to cross the step around move, on the second pitch. The route
wonders around quite a bit, and maybe is the alpine ambiance that this produces
what I like. But newbies don't seem to like precisely that.
I climbed again with Mariu and Guifre on 2002, and
they enjoyed the first pitch, which has been described everywhere as vertical
class four. Because of the big jugs.
The second pitch is an arching crack that leads
to the step around move.
The step around move bypasses a column by moving
to the other side of the column one arm and a leg. After grabbing some unobvious
crimpers, you have to move the body around as well. The move is well protected
by a pin on the very top of the column. However, there is some exposure.
Very fun, over all. The third pitch goes up one corner, crosses some
slippery 5.6 labs protected by a bolt and then traverses left to the last
belay.
Final part of the traverse to the last belay
Email : namascar@hotmail.com
Last Update: 25-Oct-03