Space Boyz, El Potrero Chico, Mexico. 5.10d 11 Pitches



On the 28th of January we decided to ditch our plans of getting used to lime stone and decided to go for the main objective of our trip directly. So we jumped into Space Boyz, a route with 11 pitches (8, 9, 9, 9, 10b, 10d, 10b, 10a, 9, 9). It sure felt engaged, but not as much as we though. The fact that it is bolted, belays are set and you can rappel from any point, made it feel more moderate. We arranged so that I got the 10d pitch and started at 8am.

 

The first two pitches go up this fun wall with tropical vegetation coming at you from every place.

 

There are occasional lizards and what not. The climbing is moderate and super fun on the first four pitches.

 

Then the situations steepens and a 10b pitch catches you off guard. Good warm up for the next 10d pitch.(up on the left). It is a corner system with stemming and finger locks. The next pitch (up on the right) is a 10b pitch that is also steep and interesting. Good introduction to lime stone for us. Brian tried to climb the crack to the left of the bolts and took a interesting whipper.

 
After the, you have some more moderate pitches to the incredible summit. Last pitch, you can climb an offwidth, stem, of use crimpers, kind of fun.

 

So that is us in the summit.



A panoramic video from the summit of Space Boyz