After the sobering experience on Lurking Fear, we decided to attempt a easier climb. Ken had done to the top of the Kor roof, so we thought we could at least find the trail to the bottom of the climb. But we didn’t. Instead we engaged on a serious boulder hopping event, with haul bad included. It proved to be a very dedicated bouldering training with emphasis on power moves. At the bottom of the climb, I took the first pitch that goes free at 5.8. It follows a hand crack on a corner to some 5.6 slabs. I feel strange with the weight of the gear and took a fall at the beginning of the crack. But there was no one to see it, so we were fine… I hauled, rather easily, despite the horror tales we heard. Ken took the 5.11c corner that proved to be easy and fun aid.
I took the next pitch at 5.8 to Dinner ledge, which we entered on the restroom area. The ledge has a fantastic view of the valley floor, Curry Village and the Half Dome. We continued with our plans of fixing to pitch 5. I lead the Kor roof, in a rather traditional style. Other more aggressive climber from England at the camp 4 told us they back cleaned all the way to the beginning of the roof.
They only had 3 friends that fit in the crack over the roof. Fortunately, we had all the gear of the world, so we were doing fine. Although we had to back clean a bit. Ken finished cleaning the pitch at 5pm, so we called it a day. We fixed a 9mm static to the Dinner ledge and rapped. That line was over the edge of the roof, which was sharper than what we would had liked, so after 2 raps and two jugs, the rope was in need of retirement.
The night was very good and the temperature warm. The views of the valley were outstanding and we could signal with the flash light to some folks on the Half Dome. The dinner was excellent, but the ringtail cat was close to get our breakfast. That sneaky evil. At any rate, on the next day, Ken did the double roof pitch, which was tricky to clean and I took the fine crack above.
Than fine crack was fast and very fun. I used lots of tiny brassy HB offsets. By the time Ken arrived, it was over 3pm, so we decided to be conservative with the time and rapped. The three pitches left were free at 5.9.
Both Ken and I were sad not to complete the route but satisfied that we did the best of our abilities. We were little by little getting closer to finish a climb at all. And having fun in the process.
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