Third Pillar of Dana Plateau (11500') - III 5.10b

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Eric and I achieved a long-time objective when we climbed the Third Pillar. The climb is awesome and we had a blast. The first pitch starts with a not-so-easy 5.7 crack that I led. The second pitch has a difficult 5.8 crack which is very awkward to climb. Eric took a fall when leading it before he figured out the move. Then I was kind enough to make him feel better by taking a whipper at the same place when following. I did the next pitch, which includes a sketchy 5.9 hand traverse with no feet and a very physical 5.9 offwidth at the top. The fourth pitch was a "feel good" pitch, involving some 5.7 chimneying and a super classic 5.8 lieback on the detached flake at the top. The fifth pitch has the 5.10b face climbing move that were not bad. The last pitch involves a tricky lieback at the start (10b) and keeps going with good handcracks separating nice steps requiring many mantle moves. Being slightly overhanging, it is a sustained pitch but the moves are classic. We both were really exhilarated at the top!

  
Downclimbing Class 4 terrain to the bottom of the Third Pillar

  
The Third Pillar of Dana Plateau

    

  
Me leading the first pitch

  
Eric on the second pitch (right where we fell)

        
Me belaying on top of the third pitch

          
Me before leading the 10b face-climbing move

        
Eric above the first tricky section of the final pitch

        
Eric in action in the overhanging last pitch

        
Me at the top of the Third Pillar with Mono Lake behind

 
 



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