El  Capitan, East Buttress - IV 5.10b

The East ridge of El Capitan is a soaring line climbing 13 pitches. The views of El Capitan, the Half Dome and the Cathedral rock are excellent, like from the VIP section. The following picture shows the line.


 

The first pitch is a chimney, going at 5.9 to a boulderly move at the end.

 

The second pitch contains a well protected face move at 5.10b. Then follows a leaning seam at 5.9. The third pitch climbs some big knobs to a ledge. The fourth pitch is a runout on the prow. Fifth is class 3. Sixth climbs some easy 5.7 face moves.

 

The south west prow of El Capitan is visible from some parts of the route. The Seventh pitch deals with a 5.8 roof, lots of fun.

       

 The next pitch is a strange 5.9 leaning crack. The ninth pitch can be done as a 5.9 face or offwith. We chose the face.

 

By the tenth pitch, one can appreciate a significant exposure. This pitch is an easy face, if you don't let the exposure bother you.

 

Pitch eleventh is a wild trip. I thought I was safe from taquicardia by being second. No way. Two easier pitches takes you the top. 



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