Eric and I climbed North Palisade at the beginning of June 2000. There was still snow in the mountains, and our first option was to ski the U-notch couloir. The route goes from the Palisades Glacier up the 42-degree U-notch Couloir to the notch between Polemonium Peak and North Palisade. From there, two options are available: an exposed Class 4 climb or a nice and airy 5.6 chimney going straight up above the couloir. Eric and I left late enough in the morning to ensure the snow would be soft enough when we boot because we hadn't taken crampons. Fortunately it was and there was an easy track to go up. Eric blasted up the couloir in an hour and waited for me at the top. I suffered a bit from altitude and insisted for him to lead both 5.6 pitches, which was fine by Eric. We slipped into our rock climbing shoes and climbed the chimney. Excellent climbing led us to the ridge leading to the summit, which we followed before climbing some more ledges. The view was awesome at the top and we were both really happy about the climb. But it was not over, because we still had to ski the couloir. We rapped off the chimney and reached the notch. We put our skis back on and Eric dropped first in the top part, which was also the steepest. It took me a bit more willpower to drop in but once the first couple of turns made, I took confidence and we both skied down the rest of the couloir. After a tricky section to go past the bergschrund, we finished carving turns on the glacier before heading down. Some people had climbed the peak and were down climbing the couloir, I think they were a bit jealous of us. I would have been...

   Javier reaching the Palisades Glacier with the U-notch couloir and North Palisade on its right behind him. 

    The nice scenery offered by the Palisades Glacier. On the left, the V-notch couloir goes up to Polemonium Peak located on its right. In the center, the U-notch couloir leads to the 5.6 chimney on the right skyline. North Palisade is the peak on its right above the snow patches. Right of the summit drops Clyde's gully. Finally, on the far right is Starlight Peak, another of California's fourteeners. 

    Javier, with the skis on his back, reaching the bergchsrund. 

    Javier at the top of the U-Notch Couloir.

    The 5.6 chimney as seen from the top of the U-notch Couloir.

    Eric climbing in the summit blocks just below the top of North Palisade.

    Eric at the summit !!

    This picture was taken by Pedro who was on the Glacier as Eric and I were skiing down the couloir. We can picture some dots, two or three on the right side of the couloir, who were climbers down climbing the couloir, and two in the middle of the couloir, who are Eric and I skiing down the gully. I think I was the one on top left and Eric was the one on the lower right corner...